Meat me in Argentina

One week of Argentina’s best sips, steaks, and sights

After five days of hiking the W Trek in Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park, we were so excited to finally relax and indulge in delicious wine and steak… and there’s no place that marries those quite like Argentina. We started with five days in Mendoza, the country’s largest wine region, before heading to Buenos Aires. I will say, while I only eat red meat occasionally, our trip really…beefed up…my love for a good steak (I hope you’re groaning audibly at this point).

Argentina Itinerary Overview

Days 1- 5: Mendoza

Days 6 – 9: Buenos Aires

Day 1: Mendoza

Note: The Uco Valley in Mendoza, Argentina, is famous for its exceptional Malbecs and stunning Andean landscapes. Reservations are essential for wine tastings, as most wineries are gated estates. For a stress-free experience, I highly recommend hiring a local driver. Many hotels can arrange this service, allowing you to enjoy yourself without worrying about navigation. Your visits to various wineries will often include tastings and gourmet lunches – a perfect blend of scenery, cuisine, and world-class wines.

Stay at the Auberge du Vin, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel, Tupungato: We were in luck that the only available Marriott property in Mendoza was a fabulous one. The Auberge du Vin was gorgeous and captured the charm of vineyard life. When we weren’t wine tasting, we loved lounging by the pool and enjoying the sun and lovely views. The property is perfect for wandering, whether it was strolling through the vineyards next door or checking out the nearby polo fields.

Lunch and Wine Tasting at Ruca Malen: When we finally arrived in Mendoza, our first stop was Ruca Malen for lunch and wine tasting. One note about winery lunches in Mendoza generally: they’re enormous, delicious, and won’t break the bank (a trifecta, I know). They typically consist of five courses, beginning with lighter fare, such as a cold soup, and progressing to more substantial dishes like beef tenderloin. Each course is complemented by a wine pairing (and to say the pours are generous would be an understatement). Ruca Malen was the BEST lunch from the trip for its use of local ingredients and its setting overlooking the vineyards and mountains.

Wine Tasting at Viña Cobos: Viña Cobos was founded in 1999 by international winemaker Paul Hobbs, and it specializes in single-vineyard Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay. While the wines were lovely, the prices here were decently higher than at other wineries in the area, likely due to the Hobbs’ name.

Day 2: Mendoza

Wine Tasting at Andeluna: Established in 2003, Andeluna offers beautiful views of the Cordón del Plata range. Something we didn’t have time to try but wish we did: the winery offers a hands-on 2.5-hour cooking class – where you can learn to make traditional empanadas – followed by a six-course lunch prepared by the chef and his team.

Wine Tasting at Bodega DiamAndes: Bodea DiamAndes is situated in the heart of the Uco Valley. While the architecture is impressive and the views are spectacular, the overall experience felt somewhat impersonal, and the winery had a bit of a corporate atmosphere.

Wine Tasting and Lunch at Salentein: Founded in 1996 by a Dutch entrepreneur, Bodega Salentein boasts some striking architecture. The estate features a main winery dubbed the “wine cathedral” (pictured below) alongside an art gallery, sculpture garden, two restaurants, a hotel, and a chapel. It’s a comprehensive wine tourism experience that goes beyond typical tastings!

Wine Tasting at Bodega Vistalba: Bodega Vistalba was established in 2003 by Carlos Pulenta, the third generation of a traditional Italian winemaking family. Currently, Paula Pulenta, the fourth generation, leads the winery and focuses on blending the Pulenta family’s historical vineyards with modern winemaking techniques.

Day 3: Mendoza

Wine Tasting at Bodega La Azul: Bodega La Azul produces around 75,000 bottles annually, making it one of the smallest wineries in the Uco Valley. The atmosphere is more relaxed and communal than other estates in the area, with communal tables in a vibrant outdoor setting. Additionally, the winery features a boutique guesthouse.

Wine Tasting and Lunch at Bodega Monteviejo: The venue is beautiful, with the dining room offering great views of the vineyards. The modern art on the rooftop (pictured below) really adds to the relaxing ~vibe~. We went for a multi-course lunch, where each of the four courses was paired with a wine from the estate. The wines – especially their flagship Malbec – were quite good. However, if you’re interested in the winemaking process or want to learn more about the wines, you might want to skip the lunch experience. The staff serving the meal didn’t share much about the wines, and the lunch doesn’t include a tour of the winery.

Wine Tasting at Bodega Solo Contigo: Another one of my favorite wineries from the trip! We arrived just as it was closing, but Daniel, the tasting room host, reopened everything without a second thought. The grounds and tasting room were gorgeous but there’s also an added bonus of quirky and fun art and a beautiful cellar (pictured below).

Day 4: Mendoza

Wine Tasting at Clos de Chacras: Clos de Chacras wins the award for the most interesting tour. It’s a small boutique winery with a fascinating story, and the staff really takes the time to explain the winery’s history and winemaking process (in a way that didn’t put me to sleep). It also looked like it catered to many locals, which is always a good sign.

…aaaaaandddd the rest of the day was spent sleeping by the pool 🙂

Day 5: Buenos Aires

Stay at the Libertador Hotel (formerly Sheraton): We stayed at the Libertador Hotel when it was a Sheraton property, but it has since been renovated and placed under new management. We liked that it was within an easy walking distance of the Opera House and Plaza de Mayo, so definitely recommend from a location perspective.

Visit the MALBA (Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires): The MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires) showcases an impressive collection of modern and contemporary Latin American art. Visitors can explore around 500 works from renowned artists such as Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, alongside other temporary exhibitions.

City Center walking tour: Per usual, I’m a big fan of walking tours. This one hits all the highlights while providing an overview of the city’s political and historical landscape. Starting at the National Congress, you’ll stroll along Avenida de Mayo, learn about Argentina’s history from independence to democracy, and visit iconic sites like the Evita Perón mural and Café Tortoni. The tour culminates at Plaza de Mayo.

Dinner at Aramburu Resto: Aramburu often graces Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. When we stopped here in 2018, it felt like a secret restaurant. The location was unassuming, and the atmosphere was intimate. Since then, the restaurant has moved to the Recoleta neighborhood (where it now boasts a vertical garden and R&D laboratory with a test kitchen) and redesigned its menu (now 20 courses!). Reservations are a must.

Day 6: Buenos Aires

Recoleta and Retiro walking tour: This tour offers a walk through one of Buenos Aires’ most luxurious neighborhoods, starting at the iconic Teatro Colón and visiting landmarks like the oldest synagogue, Templo Libertad. We enjoyed exploring Plaza San Martín and some of the city’s aristocratic residences before wrapping up at Recoleta Cemetery.

Recoleta Cemetery: Recoleta Cemetery is known for its ornate above-ground mausoleums and elaborate sculptures, housing the remains of some of Argentina’s most notable figures. Among its 6,400 graves, you can find the iconic Eva Perón (former Argentine politician, activist, actress, and philanthropist) as well as former presidents, military leaders, and Nobel Prize winners. It’s truly a maze, and it’s fun to get a little lost (there’s plenty of staff to help you find your way out).

Stroll through Jardín Japonés: Jardín Japonés was one of the biggest surprises of the trip and definitely a must-visit! Located in the Palermo district, it’s one of the largest Japanese gardens outside of Japan, established in 1967 by the local Japanese community to express gratitude to Argentina. The garden features five acres of koi ponds, bridges, a tea house, and seasonal flora like cherry blossoms and ginkgo trees.

Drinks at Victoria Brown: While technically listed as a speakeasy, there’s nothing secret about this place. The menu is a little predictable, but there are a few hidden gems. Check ou the Desde Cuba Con Amor, a rum and grapefruit drink that comes in a glass inside a brown paper bag.

Dinner at Amarra (formerly Chila): RUN, don’t walk, to Amarra. Originally known as Chila when it opened in 2018 in an old grain warehouse, this restaurant was celebrated for its innovative approach to Argentine cuisine. Under chef Pedro Bargero, diners were treated to a unique experience, complete with a map detailing the origins of each ingredient sourced from across Argentina. Amarra took over in 2023, and while I can’t say if it matches the excellence of Chila, it’s definitely worth the risk to find out! Again, reservations are critical.

Day 7: Buenos Aires

San Telmo Street Fair: Every Sunday, the Feria de San Telmon (San Telmo Fair) takes over the streets of the neighborhood. It’s truly the highlight of any Sunday in Buenos Aires. Defensa Street is closed off to vehicles and transformed into an outdoor marketplace, with plenty of stalls and street performers (it’s a great place to catch a tango performance!). The fair is open from 10 AM to 6 PM, but like many things in Buenos Aires, it really starts to buzz after noon.

Lunch at El Obrero: El Obrero, a classic cantina in La Boca, has been serving traditional Argentine beef and pasta dishes since 1954 and has attracted a host of celebrities, including Bono and Francis Ford Coppola. Known for generous portions and affordable prices, don’t miss the provoleta, fried calamari, and puchero.

Tour Barolo Palace: Palacio Barolo’s architecture was inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy and is divided into three segments: Hell, Purgatory, and Paradise. A tour is the only way to access the inside, as it functions as an office space, but it’s worth it! The lookout offers a beautiful view of the city and you get a glass of wine at the end.

Dinner at Don Julio: Don Julio, a renowned steakhouse in Buenos Aires, has built quite a reputation for its traditional Argentine grilling and claims the #10 spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. While my visit had some high points, I’m not sure it truly lived up to the hype. The steak was decent, but not exceptional, and the service was hit-or-miss. Compared to the fantastic steaks we enjoyed at Mendoza wineries, Don Julio didn’t quite stand out for me. It’s a popular spot, but the verdict is still out on whether it’s worth the price and effort to dine there (you need a reservation months in advance).