Culture, coffee, and coastlines in Colombia

One week of eating and drinking through Medellín and Cartagena

If you’re looking for the perfect combination of amazing food, good ~vibes~, and delicious coffee, look no further than Colombia! I spent a week in Medellín and Cartagena and was so impressed. The culinary scene is a hidden gem, with incredible tasting menus that won’t break the bank. If I had more time, I would have definitely added Bogota to my list for even more delicious eats and to try my hand at tejo, the explosive national sport.

Colombia Itinerary Overview

Day 1 – 3: Medellín

Day 4 – 7: Cartagena

Day 1: Medellín

Stay at the InterContinental Medellín: We stayed at the InterContinental and had a good experience. It’s worth noting the hotel is located on a busy road that isn’t very pedestrian friendly, so you need to grab an Uber or cab to get to town.

Lunch at El Cielo Restaurant: Once we arrived in Medellín, I knew our first order of business was a world class lunch at El Cielo. Known for its unique tasting menus, El Cielo provides diners with sensory experiences alongside courses. My favorites were the ‘choco-therapy,’ where we washed our hands in liquid chocolate (pictured below) and their coffee presentation (complete with dry ice display). With 16 (?) courses, everything on the menu is super-creative. Was it excessive and over the top? Yes. But was it amazing? Also yes. Reservations are a must!

Dinner at Don Diablo: Don Diablo is one of Medellin’s best steakhouses, with dry-aged steaks that are cooked to perfection and a great wine list with many South American varieties. We splurged for the tasting menu (which, again, isn’t much of a splurge compared to US prices), and each course was creative and delicious. Don Diablo belongs to popular Carmen restaurant group, which has created a few other of Medellin’s top restaurants that we ate at: Moshi and Carmen.

Day 2: Medellín

Medellín city and graffiti tour: We started our first full day in Medellín with a tour of the city and Comuna 13. Just a few years ago, Comuna 13 was considered the most dangerous area in Medellín, plagued by violence from Narcos, military operations, and guerrillas and paramilitaries. In 2006, the mayor of Medellín led the transformation of Comuna 13 with massive investments in infrastructure (including a cable car system and outdoor escalators) to improve the quality of life for residents. Since then, the area has become a symbol of change and hope and a popular tourist destination! Comuna 13 is now associated with incredible graffiti and street art performances, and taking a tour – like this one or this one – is the best way to learn more about the neighborhood’s past and present (and some of the art is really trippy!).

Go for a cable car ride: If your city tour doesn’t include it, don’t forget to ride on Medellín’s cable car system! The city’s cable cars were built as an integrated part of the metro system in order to facilitate access for locals  living in some of the steep neighborhoods of the city to the rest of the valley. Tickets are less than $1 USD, and Line J is your best bet if you want to do a full loop and enjoy panoramic views of the city (because there’s not much to see at the last stop at the top of the mountain).

Lunch at OCE.mde: Born in 2013, OCE.mde is the baby of chef Laura Londoño and husband and architect Santiago Arango, one of Medellín’s power couples. It’s known for its long, low-temperature cooking and great use of spices and aromatic herbs. The menu changes every six months, depending on the agricultural season in Colombia.

Dinner at Moshi Medellín: Sushi in Colombia may be an unexpected choice, but our experience at Moshi was exceptional. We opted for the omakase menu, which featured artisanally caught fish from the Pacific coast, alongside local products, creating a unique Colombian-Japanese fusion. Not only was the food delicious, but the sushi chef and staff were also incredibly engaging. They even provided us with an amazing lunch recommendation for the following day – a hidden gem we wouldn’t have discovered otherwise

Day 3: Medellín

Take a coffee tour: Just 30 minutes outside of Medellín lies a coffee lover’s (*raises hand*) paradise: Colombia’s famous coffee growers. Tours, like this one at La Casa Grande, offer an escape from the hustle of Medellín to a 19th-century coffee hacienda. The tour guides you through every step of the process – from planting and harvesting to processing the beans – and will give you a new appreciation for your daily brew. The grand finale is a coffee tasting – a great way to satisfy your caffeine cravings and learn more about Colombia’s rich coffee history.

Late lunch / early dinner at Casa M: For me, Casa M wins the dining award for “best all around.” We learned about the restaurant from our sushi chef at Moshi, who said it was one of his favorite places to go to for an amazing meal – and he was 100% spot on. Located in Rionegro (~45 minutes outside of downtown Medellín), the restaurant has the most stunning view of the mountains, cozy atmosphere, and dishes with ingredients supplied by the restaurant’s own garden. One note: getting a ride to the restaurant is fairly easy, but getting back can be difficult. For an extra fee, many cabs will come back to pick you up at an agreed upon time. I’d recommend doing this because the area around Casa M is quite provincial

Day 4: Cartagena

Stay at the Hyatt Regency Cartagena: The Hyatt is conveniently located in the Bocagrande area, which is within walking distance to restaurants and bars and a quick five-minute taxi ride to the Old City. The pool and surrounding deck were also lovely.

Tour Cartagena’s Old City: A walking tour is the best way to get more acquainted with Cartagena’s colorful, colonial streets (driving is absolutely brutal with the number of horse-drawn carriages). This one covers many of the city’s plazas and monuments, as well as the Museum of Modern Art, which houses many pieces of Caribbean and Latin American Art.

Drinks at Alquimico: Nestled in a beautiful mansion in the heart of Cartagena, Alquimico (a World’s 50 Best Bar…shocking) offers a three-story cocktail experience. Each floor has its own theme: classics on the ground floor, Colombia’s colors on the first, and drinks inspired by the country’s wildlife on the rooftop. It’s a creative concept that showcases Colombia’s flavors and culture. Heads up though – while the cocktails are good, the atmosphere is more energetic than your typical cocktail bar. Expect a livelier, club-like vibe, especially as the night progresses. It’s perfect if you’re looking for a bit of excitement, but maybe not ideal for a quieter evening.

Dinner at Celele: Celele was born from the Proyecto Caribe Lab initiative, which aims to celebrate the Caribbean coast’s gastronomic culture and biodiversity. Chefs Jaime Rodríguez and Sebastián Pinzón spent three years exploring the region, uncovering popular recipes and rare local ingredients to combine with traditional Colombian cuisine. Diners can choose between the à la carte menu or the immersive 10-course tasting experience. Standout dishes for me were the Caribbean flower salad with pickled cashews and cane flower vinaigrette and Celele’s signature dish: ‘Celele de cerdo,’ confit pork terrine with mashed banana, Caribbean beans, cabbage, and pork broth.

Day 5: Cartagena

Boat tour of the Rosario Islands: We spent this day boating around the Rosario Islands, an archipelago located ~ 20 km from Cartagena and one of Colombia’s 46 natural national parks. There are a number of boat tour options – like this one – that will take you around the various islands and give you an opportunity to swim / snorkel. It was nice to escape the city for the day and enjoy the water!

Dinner at Mar y Zielo: Mar y Zielo offers a multi-level dining experience in the heart of Cartagena’s old city. The restaurant features a chic main dining area, a cozy wine cellar for intimate meals, and a rooftop bar with stunning views of the skyline and cathedral. The menu puts a (delicious) spin on traditional Colombian flavors, and the seafood dishes we had there were exceptional.

Day 6: Cartagena

Lunch at La Cevicheria: Historically, ceviche is the national dish of Peru. However, the ceviche here has a distinctly local twist, resembling a soup more than a salad. And it’s fabulous. If you’re still not convinced, this is another Anthony Bourdain favorite.

Drinks at El Arsenal: The Rum Box: Another hidden gem of the trip! The Arsenal: The Rum Box opened in 2017 to showcase Colombia’s famous rum culture. Although I’m not a rum connoisseur, they had an extensive cocktail list (don’t miss the Summerango!) and a team of engaging, friendly bartenders – they gave my spouse small tastings of multiple rums he was curious about (they will also let you purchase rums directly from them – many of which aren’t available for retail purchase).

Dinner at La Cocina de Pepina: If you’re looking for a place that serves both exceptional traditional Cartagena cuisine, La Cocina de Pepina is hard to beat. What to order? Honestly, everything. The most popular dishes include the “bandeja de entradas” (a platter of mixed starters), the copa si si si, and the mote de queso. Be warned: it’s a tiny restaurant, and they may not have space immediately available. They don’t accept reservations, but a stroll through the Getsemani neighborhood to kill time is always a great option.

Day 7: Cartagena / Return to the USA

Lunch at Carmen: No trip to Cartagena is complete without eating at Carmen, which has locations both in Cartagena and Medellín. Since this was our only meal of the day given our travels, we decided to go for the tasting menu. The outdoor garden that we sat in has a lovely atmosphere, and in addition to eight formal courses, we enjoyed lots of additional freebies for tasting :).